Kilbeggan Single Pot Still Whiskey Review

In-Depth Review

Kilbeggan, located on the River Brosna in County Westmeath, is probably one of Ireland’s more underrated distilleries. Claiming the “oldest working pot still in the world”, Kilbeggan was originally founded 1757, but eventually closed during the 20th century during a time of major Irish whiskey consolidation. In 1987 its assets were bought by Cooley distillery, and in 2007 distillation began again at Kilbeggan – on the distillery’s 250-year anniversary. Marked by its unusual practice of double distillation (in Ireland a triple distillation process is standard), Kilbeggan has been making its whiskey entirely in-house since 2010. Kilbeggan is now owned by Beam Suntory - and provides an alternative choice for many whiskey enthusiasts looking for options beyond the Irish stalwarts of Midleton, Bushmills, and Tullamore.

Kilbeggan is known for a core lineup of whiskies that include: a blended Irish whiskey, a small batch rye, a triple cask expression, and this single pot still example that is only the second expression to be “100% distilled and matured” in their facility. It boasts an unusual mashbill that includes both unmalted and malted barley, in addition to the inclusion of 2.5% oats. It comes in at 43% ABV and is matured exclusively in ex-bourbon casks. Originally listed for around $45, I got this limited release expression from my friends at K&L Wines at a significant discount.

Age: Non-Age Stated

ABV: 43%

Cask: Ex-bourbon casks

MSRP: $45

Distillery Name: Kilbeggan Distillery

Review Date: 11/24/23

 

Color: Light Gold

Nose: The nose begins as classic Irish pot still whiskey – rich, syrupy, sweet, and bursting with flavor. Green apple, crisp honeydew melon, and grape must give this an almost Chardonnay vibe. Then comes notes of lemon curd, cereal grain and a malty funk. It’s big and fruity, with more than enough attitude to make it a great nose.

 Palate: The palate builds by adding more citrus acidity to the sweet, rich, fruity character. It’s complex and intriguing - notes of stewed stone fruits, barley, pie crust, all work together to deliver a deep and rewarding sip. It has a viscous and enveloping mouthfeel that’s creamy and approachable – wrapping around your tongue like great pot still whiskey should. The only downside is that the 43% ABV leaves very little heat – leaving the palate with a bit less drama than I had hoped. 

Finish: Short finish that moves from spiced wine to a waxy walnut before fading quickly into cereal grains and a touch of malty funk.

Final Thoughts: Kilbeggan Single Pot Still whiskey delivers a quintessential Irish pot still whiskey experience from one of the more under the radar distilleries in Ireland. It gets close to reaching the heights of Midleton’s Green Spot whiskey, but without the intricate wine cask finishing. The mouthfeel is classic pot still, with a rounded creaminess, big fruity flavors, and a faint hint of spice. The only downside is that the big, fruity flavors aren’t matched by the heat of a higher ABV - I can only imagine what this could be at 50% ABV or more. It’s also too bad this is a “limited release” because Kilbeggan’s pot still expression is a bottle that any Irish lover’s should have on their shelf.

Score: 91

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